Save this story Save Story Save this story Another day, another new skin-care ingredient —it’s a tale as old as, well, moisturizer. But while many buzzy, up-and-coming actives tend to have more hype than hard data behind them, polyglutamic acid for skin is one of the few trends that actually has some credibility to back up its efficacy. Some even claim that it has quadruple the hydrating power of hyaluronic acid —able to hold up to 4,000 its weight in water—and while that’s not exactly true, there is a lot to love about it. (Long story short: That was in a lab setting, per one study , but there’s never been a head-to-head comparison between hyaluronic and polyglutamic acids in skin.)
For the uninitiated, polyglutamic acid (or PGA) is a peptide chain of glutamic acid, a type of amino acid, that’s derived from fermented soybeans. “It acts primarily as a humectant, binding and retaining water at the skin’s surface, like a hydrating sponge that leaves skin feeling softer and smoother,” says Taryn Huizenga, MD , a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY. That’s why you may often spot it in hydrating serums and peptide formulas on the shelf.
PGA is also relatively large—which in this case, is a big bonus. “Because the molecule is so big, it mostly stays on the surface, where it leaves a light, flexible film that helps slow down water loss,” says Aderonke Obayomi, MD , a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. So it both pulls water into the surface layers of skin and , by forming that film, keeps water from evaporating. As a result, “what you actually see is skin that looks smoother and plumper and feels more comfortable, and fine lines caused by dehydration look softer,” she says.
There’s another advantage to be had with PGA. In addition to its hydrating properties, “it also inhibits hyaluronidase, the enzyme that breaks down your skin’s own hyaluronic acid,” says Asmi Berry, DO , a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles, CA. “So it’s not just hydrating. It’s helping protect the hydration you already have.” (That said, that’s mostly drawn from laboratory evidence, and there’s still a need for clinical evidence to show that this happens in the skin.)
But back to hyaluronic acid: There are a lot of similarities between the two, namely in terms of hydration. So, which is better—hyaluronic acid or polyglutamic acid? Hyaluronic acid has much more clinical evidence behind it, so it remains the gold standard for those who need hydration, according to Dr. Berry. Still, there’s room for PGA. “I think of them as complementary ingredients rather than one being inherently better than the other,” says Dr. Huizenga. Both are humectants that act as moisture magnets, tend to be gentle, and work for most skin types. “The difference is that PGA is a larger molecule that sits on the surface and forms that moisture-locking film, and a lot of people find it feels less tacky than hyaluronic acid,” says Dr. Obayomi. For that reason, she recommends pairing them: Apply a hyaluronic acid serum first, follow it with a PGA serum, and then apply your face moisturizer .
For those in need of extra hydration and plumping, PGA is fairly easy to incorporate. First, don’t worry too much about the percentage of PGA in a given formula. “There is not currently good clinical evidence that higher concentrations translate into proportionally better results,” says Jenna Queller, MD , a board-certified dermatologist in Boca Raton, FL. “The overall formulation and consistent use matter more than the percentage on the label.”
Moreover, polyglutamic is non-reactive, “meaning it does not interfere with other ingredients,” says Dr. Berry. “It layers well with actives that tend to compromise the skin barrier like retinoids , vitamin C , and exfoliating acids because it supports the skin and adds hydration.” Scroll ahead for the best products if you’re ready to add polyglutamic acid to your skin-care routine.
Save to wishlist Save to wishlist Cetaphil
Save to wishlist Save to wishlist Prequel
Save to wishlist Save to wishlist Dermalogica
Save to wishlist Save to wishlist Skinfix
Save to wishlist Save to wishlist The Inkey List
When we test and review a product, we take a holistic approach to deliver well-rounded product recommendations. First, we lean on Vogue ’s vast network of experts—from board-certified dermatologists to celebrity estheticians—to gain professional acumen on the industry’s standout products, ones these specialists would actually use on their clients. We pair their expertise with our editorial best practices to curate the thoughtful edits you read on our site.
As it relates to polyglutamic acid skincare, we selected the best based on the following characteristics: ingredients, texture, packaging, finish, and the skin-care concerns they address. To do this, we paired our own personal tests of each formula with expert guidance and reviewer insights to determine which we would recommend to you. Read more about our testing methodology here .
Taryn Huizenga, MD , a board-certified dermatologist at Spring Street Dermatology in New York, NY Aderonke Obayomi, MD , a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY Asmi Berry, DO , a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles, CA Jenna Queller, MD , a board-certified dermatologist in Boca Raton, FL Discover More Beauty Recommendations From Vogue Shopping The Best Eyebrow Pencils for Older Women Create Natural-Looking Volume and Fullness
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Source: Lifestyle
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